Paloma’s fan‑forced gas geysers include onboard diagnostics. When something interrupts normal operation, the unit shows a numeric error code on the front LED and on any wired controller. This guide explains what those codes mean, simple checks you can do safely, and when to us.

⚠️ Safety first
Gas and hot water systems are potentially dangerous. If you smell gas, turn the appliance off, close the cylinder/isolating valve, ventilate the area and do not create sparks or flames. For any persistent fault, call us at The LpGas Man.

Please note, Not all Paloma units are installed with a controller. It is an added extra.

Quick reset & basic checks

Before diving into codes, try this basic reset and checklist:

1. Close all hot taps.
2. Turn the controller off and switch off electrical power to the gas geyser.
3. Confirm gas is available: cylinder has gas (for LPG), isolation valves are fully open.
4. Wait 5 minutes, then restore power to the Paloma gas geyser, turn the controller back on if you have one installed and open a hot tap.

Also check:

• Water supply is on and inlet filter isn’t blocked.
• Ventilation & flue: nothing blocking the air intake or exhaust (keep clear space around the unit; no obstructions near the terminal).
• Regulator & piping: correct gas type, stable pressure, no oil contamination, and no air in the line (after bottle change).

If the code returns, proceed below or contact us.

Paloma error codes explained

Below are the most common Paloma tankless water heater (geyser) error codes seen in South Africa, what they usually indicate, and what you can do. Please note, Get us or an installer and don't try attempt to repair these units. It could end up costing you more.

Download Paloma trouble shooting and error code PDF 

Tip: If you’re on borehole or very hard water, lime‑scale build‑up can trigger several errors. Periodic descaling/flushes dramatically improve reliability.

Quick cheat sheet (most common Paloma error codes)

Code	What it means	Quick fix (owner)	What we check (Technician)
00	1‑hour continuous run	Close all hot taps; check for dripping mixers or a circulation pump left on.	Confirm system design, timers, and pump setups.
10	Air supply / flue issue	Clear intake and terminal; ensure good ventilation.	Inspect vent lengths, terminations, fan cleanliness, exchanger fins.
11	Failed to ignite	Check bottle isn’t empty; valves open; purge air after bottle change; try higher flow.	Measure static/working gas pressure & volume; regulator creep/oil; ignitor & wiring; pipe sizing.
12	Flame went out	As for 11; ensure adequate water flow.	Flame rod condition/wiring; venting; pressures; PCB.
14	Exchanger overheat	Improve airflow; if on hard/borehole water, plan a flush.	Descale heat‑exchanger; verify gas type/pressure; clean combustion area; sensor/PCB checks.
15	Boiling protection	Open cold inlet fully; clean inlet screen.	Descale exchanger; verify setpoint; flow sensors.
51	Gas inlet solenoid	—	Harness continuity; diaphragm debris/oil; valve replacement if needed.
52	Gas modulating solenoid	—	As for 51; modulation tests & pressures.
76	Controller comms fault	Reseat/inspect controller cable.	Replace cable/controller; PCB if required.
79	Fan speed fault	—	Free fan, verify supply voltage, replace fan/PCB if faulty.
82	Gas‑type data lost	—	Reprogram gas‑type card; re‑set pressures.
99	Blocked flue/combustion	Confirm clear intake/exhaust.	Clean exchanger/fan/filters/flue; verify pressures; reset & test.

Paloma error codes explained

Below are the most common Paloma tankless water heater (geyser) error codes seen in South Africa, what they usually indicate, and what you can do.

Tip: If you’re on borehole or very hard water, lime‑scale build‑up can trigger several errors. Periodic descaling/flushes dramatically improve reliability.

Code 00 – 1‑hour continuous use

Meaning: The geyser has run non‑stop for an hour.
What to do: Close all hot taps, check for dripping/leaking mixers, and switch off or bypass any circulation pumps.

Code 10 – Pre‑error (air supply/exhaust issue)

Meaning: The combustion air or flue path is restricted.
What to do (owner): Clear inlet and tap filters; make sure nothing blocks the flue/terminal.
What we check: Vent components and connections, gas supply/pressure, clean fan, air intake and heat‑exchanger fins; then reset and test.

Code 11 – Failed to ignite (gas supply issue)

Meaning: The unit didn’t light.
Owner checks: Cylinder not empty, valves fully open, bleed air from lines after bottle change, try another hot tap to raise flow.
Technician tasks: Verify static/working gas pressure and volume, check for regulator creep or oil residue, solenoid and ignitor wiring, ignitor “tick”, and correct pipe sizing.

Code 12 – Flame extinguished (gas supply issue)

Meaning: Flame went out during operation.
Owner checks: As for code 11; also ensure adequate water flow.
Technician tasks: Inspect flame rod connections and carbon build‑up, confirm vent lengths (internal units), verify gas pressures and wiring.

Code 14 – Heat‑exchanger protection (overheat limiter)

Meaning: Excessive heat build‑up—commonly lime‑scale or airflow restriction.
Owner checks: Ensure good airflow around the unit.
Technician tasks: Check gas type/pressures, look for exchanger discoloration or cracks, clear foreign material in combustion chamber or flue, and flush/descale the heat‑exchanger; replace OHM sensor if needed.

Code 15 – Boiling safety device (over‑hot water)

Meaning: Water leaving the unit is too hot, usually due to restricted water supply or air ingress.
Owner checks: Confirm cold‑inlet valve is open and inlet screen is clean.
Technician tasks: Descale clogged exchanger; on commercial units, reduce setpoint to < 82 °C; full flush if on borehole water.

Code 51 – Gas inlet solenoid fault

Meaning: Proportional gas valve (inlet) malfunction.
Action: Technician checks wiring harness, looks for oil/sand in diaphragm, confirms high/low gas settings, clears blockages; replace valve if faulty.

Code 52 – Gas modulating solenoid fault

Meaning: Modulating section of the gas valve malfunction.
Action: Technician inspects/cleans valve and diaphragm, checks harness and gas pressures; replace valve if needed.

Code 76 – Remote/controller communication fault

Meaning: The wired controller isn’t syncing with the unit.
Owner checks: Inspect for damaged/loose controller cable.
Technician tasks: Bypass with a new direct cable, replace faulty cable/controller, or PCB if required.

Code 79 – Fan motor fault

Meaning: Fan speed out of range.
Action: Ensure fan spins freely; technician verifies gas pressures and fan voltage; repair/replace fan or PCB.

Code 82 – Gas type data failure

Meaning: PCB lost its gas‑type programming.
Action: Technician re‑inserts/programs the gas‑type card and resets gas pressures.

Code 99 – Blocked flue/combustion fault

Meaning: Air intake or exhaust is obstructed.
Owner checks: Confirm clear ventilation and no flue blockages.
Technician tasks: Clean heat‑exchanger, fan, inlet filter and flue; verify gas pressures; reset and test.

“No error code” but there’s a problem

Sometimes the unit doesn’t show a code but misbehaves:

• Nothing happens when water is flowing:
  Make sure the unit has power (check breakers/fuses and the MAX button), clean the inlet water filter, ensure the minimum flow rate is met, and that the impeller spins freely. On new installs, confirm hot/cold aren’t crossed and check for bleed‑over (close cold inlet at the geyser; if water still exits hot taps, there’s a cross‑connection).
• Ignites momentarily when a cold tap is opened:
  Plumbing issue. Hot/cold lines swapped, bleed‑over somewhere, or water bounce (air in a dead‑leg). Purge the system and fit a non‑return valve.
• No water at the tap:
  Safety shut‑off due to excessive inlet pressure (fit a 400 kPa PRV) or a power interruption mid‑operation (turn power off for 30 s, then restart).
• Fluctuating temperature:
  Check gas regulator output and cylinder volume, verify system sizing, inlet water pressure and clean filters. If on borehole water, we may need to remove the unit and preform a flush or repair on your unit off site until clear.

Preventive care for Paloma geysers

- Fit a sediment filter and clean the unit’s inlet screen regularly.

- On hard/borehole water, schedule annual descaling (more often in very hard areas).

- Keep the flue terminal and air intake clear; avoid storing items near the unit.

- Test gas regulator performance (low/high output, stable delivery or oil residue).

- Ensure correct pipe sizing and adequate cylinder capacity to handle multiple hot taps.

When to call The LpGas Man

- Error recurs after a reset or basic checks.

- You suspect regulator, PCB, fan, solenoid, or venting faults.

- You’re on borehole water and the unit overheats or surges.

- You need a compliant installation, PRV, or system re‑sizing.

We service, test and commission Paloma gas geysers, perform full heat‑exchanger flushes, fix wiring/valving issues, and supply controllers and spares. Get in touch and we’ll get your hot water back safely.

FAQ

How do I reset a Paloma gas geyser?
Close all hot taps, turn the controller and power off, check gas valves are open, wait 5 minutes, then restore power, turn the controller on and open a hot tap.

Why do codes 11/12 keep coming back?
They’re gas‑supply related. Common culprits are empty/undersized cylinders, regulators with oil contamination or creep, air in the line, incorrect pipe sizing, or insufficient water flow.

What’s the fix for code 14 on borehole water?
Scale inside the heat‑exchanger causes overheating. The remedy is a full chemical flush/descale, plus checks that airflow is unobstructed. Book your unit in before further damage.

What maintenance extends geyser life?
Regular inlet filter cleaning, flue/air‑intake clearance, regulator checks, and yearly descaling (especially on hard water).